Master Bathroom Remodeling Pocatello ID means tearing out the failing shower valve, the cracked tile grout, and the vanity that never fit, then rebuilding the room around how you actually use it. We handle demolition, PEX and copper piping, Schluter waterproofing membrane, tile, lighting, and ventilation as one licensed crew. If your master bath is dated, leaking, or just too small to start your morning in, we walk the room with you and price the whole job up front.
Master Bathroom Remodeling Pocatello ID is a full-gut renovation of the largest bathroom in your home, covering demolition, rough plumbing and electrical, cement backer board and waterproofing membrane, new tile, vanity, countertop, fixtures, and ventilation. It is not a cosmetic refresh. We open the walls, replace the shower valve and supply lines, correct framing and subfloor issues, then rebuild the wet zone to TCNA standards so water stays where it belongs. Most Pocatello master baths we open have at least one hidden problem: a slow drain, mold and mildew behind the tile, or a faulty exhaust fan that has been dumping moisture into the walls for years.
Homeowners across Bannock County call us when the original 1970s or 1980s builder-grade bath stops working for a modern household. Two people sharing one small vanity, a tub nobody uses, and low water pressure from corroded galvanized lines are the usual complaints. A Pocatello master bathroom contractor who only swaps fixtures leaves the real problems in the wall. We quote the full scope, including the plumbing and electrical work that a master bathroom renovation Pocatello ID actually requires, so you are not paying twice when the second issue surfaces.
Every master bath we build starts with the same core scope: tear-out, rough plumbing and electrical, waterproofing, tile, and finish fixtures. You choose the tile, vanity, and fixtures from our supplier list, or we install what you have already bought. Add-ons like heated floors, a freestanding tub, or a curbless entry are priced into the same quote so nothing surprises you mid-job.
We remove the old tub, tile, vanity, toilet, and drywall, protect your floors and stairs, and haul everything to the dump. That includes the old cement backer board and any rotted framing we find behind it. You do not rent a dumpster or lift a hammer.
A licensed plumber replaces the shower valve, drain, and supply lines with PEX or copper, and our electrician runs a dedicated circuit, GFCI outlets, and the exhaust fan duct. Both stages are permitted and inspected before walls close.
We hang cement backer board, seal seams, and roll a bonded waterproofing membrane over the shower and wet walls. The pan gets a flood test. Then we set your ceramic tile, porcelain tile, or stone with a wet saw and laser level, and finish with grout and silicone caulk.
Your new vanity and cabinets are leveled and anchored to studs, the quartz or MSI countertop is templated and set, and the sink, faucet, toilet, and shower trim go in. We test every supply line and drain under pressure before the final walk.
A 110 CFM exhaust fan ducted to the exterior, a timer switch, and vanity or recessed lighting are part of the standard scope. We size the fan to the room and place lights so your face is lit evenly at the mirror, not shadowed.
We hang moisture-resistant drywall, tape and texture, prime, and paint. Trim, caulk lines, and hardware go on last. Then we vacuum the room, haul the last scraps out, and hand you a maintenance sheet for grout sealer and caulk.
We spend 45 to 60 minutes in the room, checking the shower valve, toilet flange, exhaust duct, and subfloor with a moisture meter and stud finder. You get a written scope and a fixed price, not a range that grows. If a permit is needed, we tell you at this visit and pull it.
Days one and two are tear-out. We protect the hallway and stairs, haul the old tub, tile, and vanity out, and open the walls. A licensed plumber replaces the valve, drain, and supply lines with PEX or copper, and our electrician runs the new circuit, GFCI outlets, and exhaust fan duct.
We hang cement backer board, seal seams, and roll the waterproofing membrane. The pan gets a flood test overnight. Then tile goes down with a wet saw, tile spacers, and a laser level for consistent grout lines. Walls, floor, and shower niche are set before grout and silicone caulk finish the job.
The quartz countertop is templated and set, the vanity and cabinets are leveled and shimmed, and the toilet, sink, and faucet go in. We test every supply line and drain under pressure, check the shower valve for temperature swing, and confirm the exhaust fan pulls air with a tissue test.
We walk the room with you, run the shower for 10 minutes, and check for any weep at the curb or grout line. Touch-up paint, caulk lines, and hardware go on last. We haul every scrap out, vacuum the room, and hand you a maintenance sheet listing the grout sealer and caulk schedule.
We spend 45 to 60 minutes in the room, checking the shower valve, toilet flange, exhaust duct, and subfloor with a moisture meter and stud finder. You get a written scope and a fixed price, not a range that grows. If a permit is needed, we tell you at this visit and pull it.
Cuts porcelain and ceramic tile with a clean edge and no chipping. We use it for every straight cut and around the shower niche and valve openings.
Sets a true horizontal line for tile courses and vanity height. It is how we keep grout lines level across a 10-foot wall instead of drifting.
Checks the subfloor and framing for hidden water before we close a wall. If the reading is high, we find the source before tile goes down.
Clears clogged drains in the shower and toilet line without cutting pipe. We run it before setting fixtures so the drain is known-good.
Applies silicone caulk at the shower corners, tub edge, and vanity backsplash. A clean bead keeps water out of the joints that grout cannot seal.
Cuts drywall and trim cleanly around valves, outlets, and the toilet flange. It keeps the demo tight so patches are small.
A 1950s Old Town bath with cracked tile, a leaking shower valve, and mold on the backer board. The vanity was 30 inches and the exhaust fan had not worked in years.
After: We replaced the valve, rebuilt the shower with cement backer board and membrane, and set new porcelain tile. A 60-inch quartz vanity and a 110 CFM fan went in. The room now dries out in under four minutes.
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A Highland Area master bath with a tub nobody used, a high curb, and a single vanity light that left the mirror in shadow.
After: We removed the tub, built a curbless walk-in shower with a linear drain and bench, and added a heated floor. Dimmable LED vanity lights replaced the old fixture. The floor gained 8 square feet of usable space.
Book this service →A Pocatello Creek home with galvanized supply lines, low pressure at the shower, and a running toilet that had been repaired twice.
After: We repiped the bath in PEX, replaced the toilet flange and set a comfort-height toilet, and tiled the floor and shower. Pressure at the shower rose from a weak trickle to a steady flow, and the toilet stopped running.
Book this service →Most master baths we open have two or three problems hiding behind the tile. Here are the ones we see most in Pocatello homes, and what happens if you leave them alone.
Ask a pro →We open the wall, replace the valve and any damaged framing, and rebuild the wet zone with cement backer board and waterproofing membrane. The repair is inspected before tile goes back on, so the leak is gone and the wall is dry.
We strip the old tile and backer board, treat any mold, and rebuild with a bonded membrane and fresh grout sealed against moisture. New porcelain tile and silicone caulk at the corners close the path water was using.
We install a 110 CFM fan ducted to the exterior with a timer switch. Sized to your room volume, it clears the mirror in under four minutes and pulls moisture out of the house instead of the attic.
We repipe with PEX or copper, install a pressure-balance or thermostatic valve, and set new Kohler, Moen, or Delta fixtures. You get steady temperature and strong pressure even when the kitchen tap runs.
Most master bath remodels in Pocatello run $18,000 to $45,000 in 2026, with a typical mid-range job landing near $27,000. A cosmetic refresh with new tile and a vanity sits at the low end. Moving plumbing, adding a walk-in shower, or upgrading to quartz and a heated floor pushes toward the top. We give you a fixed price after the walkthrough, so you are not guessing.
A full remodel includes demolition, rough plumbing and electrical, waterproofing, tile, vanity and countertop, toilet, sink, faucet, lighting, and exhaust fan. We also handle drywall, paint, and trim. Fixtures and tile are selected with you before we order. If you want a freestanding tub or a curbless shower, that is scoped in from the start rather than added later.
Plan on two to four weeks of working days for a standard master bath, and five to six weeks if we move walls or relocate the drain. Tile and waterproofing cure times set the floor. We give you a day-by-day schedule at kickoff and a realistic move-back-in date, and we keep the water shut off only during the rough-in stage.
Yes, any remodel that changes plumbing, electrical, or the shower pan requires a permit through the City of Pocatello. We pull it, meet the inspector, and keep the signed card on file. Skipping the permit can void your insurance and stall a sale. We build to current code and schedule the inspection as part of the job.
Call +1 (986) 336-9053 and we will walk your master bath, check the shower valve and ventilation, and hand you a fixed price. Licensed, insured, and warrantied, with permits handled for you. Free estimate, no pressure, and a schedule you can plan around.
Get Free Estimate +19863369053 →Call us or send a message and we will get back to you the same business day. We schedule estimates Monday through Friday and can usually get to a Pocatello address within a few days. Tell us what is going on with the bathroom and we will tell you what it takes to fix it.