We handle bathroom drywall and painting Pocatello ID homeowners can count on, from patching a cracked corner to hanging fresh moisture-resistant board around a new shower. If you need bathroom drywall repair Pocatello Idaho before tile or paint goes on, we cut out the damaged section, treat what is behind it, and rebuild the surface flat. One crew, one schedule, no juggling trades.
Bathroom drywall and painting Pocatello ID is the sequence of hanging, taping, sealing, and finishing the wall surfaces in a wet room so they resist steam, splashes, and the freeze-thaw swings we get here. We use mold-resistant board near tubs and showers, cement backer board where tile lands, and a waterproofing membrane behind the wet wall. Then we tape, mud, sand, and prime before any color goes up. Skip a step and the paint peels within a season.
Most Pocatello homes we walk into have the same story: a 1970s or 1980s bath with paper-faced drywall, a failing exhaust fan, and soft spots under the paint. Bannock County's dry winters and wet springs push moisture through those walls, and mold and mildew show up behind the vanity. If you have been searching bathroom drywall and painting near me Pocatello, we are the crew that opens the wall, fixes the cause, and finishes it clean.
Every job is scoped to your bathroom, but here is what we bring as standard. If your project needs something outside this list, we tell you before we start and price it clearly.
We read the walls with a moisture meter, cut out failed board 12 to 24 inches past the visible damage, and treat any mold or mildew we find. That gives the new board a dry, sound surface to bond to instead of trapping moisture behind it.
Wet zones get cement backer board. The rest of the bathroom gets mold-resistant drywall. We fasten to studs with the right spacing so the wall is solid, and we check for square with a laser level before the first sheet goes up.
We tape and mud in thin coats, sand between passes, and finish to level 4 so the wall looks flat under side light. Corners are taped and reinforced, and every repair is feathered 12 inches past the edge so it disappears.
Behind the tile and around the tub or shower, we roll a waterproofing membrane over the backer board. This is the layer that keeps steam and splash out of the wall cavity. It is the difference between a wall that lasts and one that fails in a few seasons.
We spot-prime every repair, match the existing texture, and apply two finish coats of bathroom-grade acrylic with a mildewcide. Ceilings above the shower get a dedicated formula. We caulk the tub and vanity seams with silicone caulk before we call it done.
We start with a moisture meter on the walls around the tub, shower, and toilet. If readings are high, we trace the source before we quote. You get a written scope the same day, and we flag anything that changes the price before we start, not after.
We cut out the failed board back to sound material, usually 12 to 24 inches past the visible damage. If we find a leaking shower valve or a slow drain behind the wall, we stop and show you. That is the moment to replace PEX or copper while it is exposed.
New board goes up with a laser level and stud finder so corners are square. We tape and mud in thin coats, then roll a waterproofing membrane over the wet zone. This is the step that decides whether the wall lasts 5 years or 25.
We sand to a level-4 finish, wipe the dust, and spot-prime every repair. Texture is matched to the rest of the room, whether that is a light orange peel or a smooth finish. You inspect the walls under a work light before we paint.
Two finish coats go on the walls, one on the ceiling, cut in by hand at the tub and vanity. We caulk the seams with silicone caulk, reinstall fixtures, and walk the room with you. Most baths are back in use the same evening.
We start with a moisture meter on the walls around the tub, shower, and toilet. If readings are high, we trace the source before we quote. You get a written scope the same day, and we flag anything that changes the price before we start, not after.
Reads the water content in drywall and framing before and after a repair. We do not close a wall until the reading tells us the cavity is dry.
Keeps new board square and finds the framing for solid fastening. Square walls are what make tile and shower doors sit straight.
Cuts clean openings for valves, outlets, and access panels without tearing the surrounding board. Cleaner cuts mean smaller patches and less texture to match.
Seals the tub-to-wall and vanity-to-wall seams. Silicone stays flexible, so it does not crack when the tub moves with a full load of water.
Controls sanding dust and any lead-safe containment on pre-1978 homes. We keep the dust out of the rest of your house.
Used when tile work follows the drywall. The wet saw cuts porcelain and ceramic cleanly, and the float packs grout into the joints without voids.
A 1950s bath had paint peeling above the tub and a soft spot the size of a dinner plate. The exhaust fan moved about 30 CFM. Moisture had reached the framing, and the paper face on the drywall had separated.
After: We cut out 24 inches of board, treated the mold, replaced the fan with a 110 CFM unit, and rebuilt the wall with mold-resistant board and a waterproofing membrane. Two finish coats of satin acrylic went on. Moisture readings dropped from 22% to 11%.
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A braided supply line failed under the vanity and soaked the wall overnight. The drywall was wet 18 inches up from the floor, and the paint had bubbled across a 4-foot section. The vanity had to come out.
After: We dried the cavity for two days, replaced the PEX line, hung new mold-resistant board, taped and textured to match, and painted the wall. The vanity went back in over a sealed, painted surface. Total time was four working days.
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A 1990s garden tub took up half the bathroom and the surround tile had cracked grout at the tub line. Water had been getting behind the tile, and the backer board was soft in two spots near the drain end.
After: We removed the tub and surround, installed cement backer board and a waterproofing membrane, set a new shower pan and valve, and finished the dry walls with texture and paint. The bathroom gained about 8 square feet of usable floor space.
Book this service →Most bathroom wall damage traces back to water finding a way in and staying there. These are the problems we see most often in Pocatello, and what happens if you leave them alone.
Ask a pro →We cut out the failed board, check the exhaust fan output, and rebuild the wall with mold-resistant board and a waterproofing membrane. Then we prime and paint with a bathroom-grade acrylic so the surface sheds steam instead of absorbing it.
We pull the toilet, cut out the wet board, treat any mold, and replace it with moisture-resistant material. We repair the flange area, then paint with a washable finish. If the toilet is running, we fix that too so the new wall stays dry.
We remove the loose tile, replace the damaged backer board, and roll a waterproofing membrane over the wet zone. New tile goes up on a sealed substrate, and we caulk the tub seam with silicone caulk so movement does not crack it again.
We treat the mold, replace any compromised board, and repaint with a mildew-resistant finish. We also check the exhaust fan and recommend a properly sized unit, because stopping the moisture at the source is what keeps the mold from coming back.
Most bathroom drywall and painting Pocatello ID jobs run $850 to $2,400 in 2026, depending on square footage and how much board has to come out. A small patch and repaint lands near the low end. A full gut with new backer board, waterproofing, and two finish coats runs higher. If the wall is open for a plumbing repair, bundling the drywall work saves you a second mobilization.
A satin or semi-gloss 100% acrylic with a built-in mildewcide is the right call for Pocatello bathrooms. Flat paint absorbs steam and stains, and it scuffs at the towel bar. We use a dedicated bathroom ceiling formula above the shower, because that surface sees the most condensation. Two finish coats over a primer made for glossy or repaired surfaces is what keeps it from peeling.
A patch-and-paint job takes one to two days. A full bathroom drywall and painting Pocatello ID rebuild with new board, membrane, texture, and paint runs four to six working days, mostly because joint compound needs to dry between coats. We keep the bathroom usable as much as possible and tell you each morning what will be wet that day.
Yes, anywhere within 3 feet of a tub, shower, or sink, and on the ceiling above the shower. Standard paper-faced board wicks moisture and feeds mold once the exhaust fan falls behind. We use mold-resistant board in those zones and cement backer board where tile goes. In a basement bath or a room with poor ventilation, we treat the whole wall as a wet zone.
We give free estimates on bathroom drywall and painting Pocatello ID work, and we can usually schedule a walkthrough within a few days. Call us at +1 986-336-9053 and we will tell you what your wall needs and what it costs before we start.
Get a Free Estimate +19863369053 →Call us or send a message and we will get back to you the same business day. We schedule estimates Monday through Friday and can usually get to a Pocatello address within a few days. Tell us what is going on with the bathroom and we will tell you what it takes to fix it.